Re: Portable atlas?
Try "Mapfactor Navigator" for Android to be able to download OSM maps on to your phone. I use the "free" version, which has the occasional banner ad, but then I use my phone with data turned off, so maybe it shows more ads if it can download them. As I understand it, it can also use TomTom maps, but I'm a cheapskate.
I haven't found an OSM GPS app for iphone that I like as much, but then again, I haven't tried very hard.