In the US, you would use a "Three-Way Switch"...Double pole/Double throw.
In a nutshell, You are toggling back and forth between two terminals. One switch is wired to power and the other to the light. In operation, Switch A sends power to the other switch over Lead A, leaving Lead B cold. If Switch B is set to connect to Lead A the light is on. Toggle it to Lead B and the light is off. Toggle it back to Lead A and the light comes back on.
Assume that Switch B is now toggled to Lead B, leaving the light off. Go to the OTHER switch and flip it. This routes power to Lead B instead, turning the light back on.
This configuration requires what we in the US call a "traveler"...an extra hot lead between the switches. Instead of the standard White/Black/Bare or White/Black/Green (Neutral/Hot/Ground) you instead use (generally) White/Black/Red/Green (Neutral/Hot1/Hot2/Ground.
To add to the confusion, a standard residence in the US is actually wired for 240...we just use half of it. A standard residential panel is wired for 240V/200A. The difference is that the pole transformer is center-tapped to provide a Neutral. Incoming to the panel are two phases, a Neutral, and a ground. Between either phase and Neutral is 120, between the two phases is 240. In theory, Neutral and Ground should be at the same (lack of) potential. Neutral is the return path, Ground is safety if you lose the Neutral. The service panel has a bus for each phase, with each 120 breaker picking up an alternate phase. A 240 breaker is basically just two adjacent breakers ganged together to provide 2 hots instead of 1.
High-current appliances (water heaters, furnace, air conditioning, range top, oven, etc.) are generally 240, with everything else being 120. To allow for internal 120 circuits within an appliance (oven timer, oven light, etc. current code requires that the Neutral be present in a 240 receptacle, even if not used. This means that opening up a 240 junction box will most likely reveal a Neutral, 2 hots, and a ground...White/Black/Red/Green...just like the box on the wall for your 3-way (120) light switch.
The old standard did NOT require a Neutral, so you would just find Hot1/Hot2/Ground...Black/Red/Green. If the device required 120 internally, they just used the Ground as a return path. This could cause unpleasant surprises while working in the box, as lifting the ground connection from the ground bus resulted in a bright flash and an ENERGIZED BARE CONDUCTOR running around in your breaker panel.
I am NOT an electrician. I generally work with 48VDC, and only see 90-120VAC when the phone rings...I do Telecom. Electrical knowledge is courtesy of the US Navy, as is the Telecom. (FWIW, Navy ships are all 480V, 3-phase, 60 Hz, then we do the same weird shit for 240/120 equipment. I've sat switchboard watch with 8MW worth of steam turbine generators online and paralleled.)