Why not use a standard RC lippo ?
Why the choice for the AA lippo's and not a standard RC lippo pack, they come in all shapes and sizes and would be lighter then those AA's
Our magnificent Vulture 2 spaceplane is in bits for the last time as we make the final modifications before declaring the aircraft fully operational - at least in the hardware department. Our Vulture 2's dismantled avioncs During a recent test, we identified a couple of problems - a dodgy port canard servo and a a lack of …
It must weigh a ton.
At this point I'd recommend a stand-back-and-look-at-it-all moment, both for power and the total payload.
There really is a lot of kit in there. Much of it basically IT kit, not flying kit.
The power too looks cobbled together. Why not use a sufficiently large LiPo battery (enough cells to bring the peak current down), and add individual down-converters for the various subsystems. Instead of bunging in hobbyist "modules", investigate using proper fixed-output boards which produce the correct voltage anyway. Less complexity and an integrated approach should add lightness and reliability.
Frankly retail AA's in pp3-clip holders is asking for trouble - even if you do solder to the pips instead of using a snap.
Sorry to snipe, but there's a lot of dosh and time riding on this, and it would be a shame if it all went west because of a loose connection.
Two things - LiPos will not work at the expected temperatures. Full stop. The Ultimate Lithiums are the only batteries for the job, and we know because we've got a rack of high-altitude balloon flights under our belts.
Regarding the connectors - there will be no connectors for the mission itself. All connections will be soldered.
This post has been deleted by its author
Lithium chemistry works if kept warm. For this, some electricity from the battery can be sent through a heating jacket that surrounds the battery. (The red-orange stuff in this picture: http://www.lange-aviation.com/htm/english/products/antares_20e/img_battery_module_xl.html )
However, "coffee-pack" LiPos depend on outside air pressure to press anode, separator film and cathode together. This pressure is not available at altitude, which is why the cells in the link are potted Li-Ion cells which do not require ambient pressure (As a matter of fact, a relatively large number of these cells are currently in orbit).
What Missing Semicolon said. Take a step back and look at how many separate battery packs you're using.
A single large power pack and individual (switching) downconverters for the loads is the way to go, because I expect weight and balance will soon be a concern.
According to its web page, the 3DR power module for the Pixhawk will accept up to 18V input, so why not hook it and the CC-BEC servo battery eliminator to the 8-cell pack and do away with the four cell pack entirely?
Nothing in the documentation for the Castle Creations BEC states it's a switching BEC, I assume you've checked that out?
If it's a linear BEC then it'll draw the same current from the power source regardless of voltage and dissipate the difference as heat. A switching BEC is more efficient but may introduce interference.
Edit - yes, the user guide does mention switching. As you were.
Just to add to the battery clip concerns. From previous rocketry experience the contact springs compress under thrust from the rocket motor and you will lose power as a result. Numerous spacked rockets whose altimeters lost power during the boost phase of flight testify to this.
Why use standard AAA/AA.
I use 18650 nowdays. It's much better ratio energy/weight
Take a look at aliexpress.com/item/4-Pcs-3-7V-6000mAh-18650-Li-ion-Rechargeable-Battery-for-Flashlight-UltraFire-DropShipping/1782642510.html.
6Ah and 3.7v have all the juice you need
it would seem to me* that a simple solution would be to turn the pack round so that the spring is in the front. Then it would only compress on sudden DEcelleration. A few turns of electrician's tape to keep the batteries in the pack and that should do it, yes?
* I am not a boffin, nor do I have the requisite high altitude experience. Merely making an observation based upon available information presented herein.
High G testing - you might want to tie a piece of string to the back end of this wee bolide and swing it around your head rather quickly, to simulate the launch forces.
Edit - the *front end* - the back will simulate the motor cutoff, but that will be a lower acceleration.
"The radio antenna, meanwhile, is well aft on the aircraft's underside, keeping it as far away from the GPS as possible:"
Surely a skeleton slot would be aerodynamically "cleaner" ?
You could stick one on the inside of the body (assuming fibreglass)
Example of a wideband one at http://ieeexplore.ieee.org/stamp/stamp.jsp?arnumber=6094162 - and it has much higher gain than your wee stubby.
more math at http://psas.pdx.edu/SlotAntenna/
but watch out if you ever get to 16 tonnes, at which point you will another day older and another day deeper in debt.
Joking aside, you can jam stuff into the springs in the battery holder, so that they cannot compress even when put under launch loads.
Also, can you manage to do a drop test, or a wind tunnel run? With all that weight, and the slender body and canard/wings, I would guess that it would fly very fast: vertically.
Sod the battery alternatives - the decision looks as if it's been made for good reasons.
My concern now is trim - getting the weight distribution correct with those concentrated masses needs lots of careful work before you end up building the highest flying, remotely monitored catherine wheel ever ... Good luck!
Has the centre of mass now shifted significantly backwards then?
Unless you can also move the wings backwards we might have some real stability issues.
My experience is solely based on playing "Kerbal Space Program", but unless the centre of lift is just behind the centre of mass it won't be stable in flight...?